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How to break in your nice new 4 stroke engine

How to break in your nice new 4 stroke engine.




The way I break in a NEW or REBUILT 4 stroke engine is with HEAT   CYCLES


I want to let you know now that this is not hard to do. It IS tedious and will take most of a day. After this procedure, your engine WILL be broken in properly.


You don’t see an Indy car driver going around the track at ½ throttle to break in the engine!! No, it’s all done on the dyno before that engine ever went into his car. I do the same thing with race bikes on our dyno and you can do the same with your ride.

Heat Cycles are what are done on a dyno to any new race engine to break it in.

The good news is it’s easy and simple to do.

The main thing you want to do is heat up and cool down the engine in a controlled manor.

Say you just put a new engine in aYZ450 dirt bike and you want it to last a long time and run strong.

Now I must clarify that this break in is for a BRAND NEW ENGINE that you or a shop just put together.

If you just got a new bike from your dealership, remember that the engine was put together at the factory and run on a dyno, than the entire bike was assembled and run on a dyno, put in a box and shipped to your dealer. They did the final assembly and maybe jetted it and took it for a test ride. Now you get your brand new bike. It HAS gone through SOME of this break in, so the very beginning of this is already done.

On a NEW or freshly rebuilt engine, make sure it’s ready to go-oil in it at the correct level, coolant full and basics.ign. and cam timing are set.

#1- Fire it up and keep it running at a low rpm-enough so it doesn’t stall for 5 minutes—DO NOT put it in gear or ride it, just let it run.


#2- After 5 minutes of running shut it off for 10 minutes.


#3- Fire it up again for 5 minutes and just keep it running.


#4- Shut it off for 10 minutes.


#5- Fire it up for 10 minutes.


#6- Shut it off for 10 minutes.


#7- Fire it up for 10 minutes.


#8- Keep adding 5 minutes to the run time but keep the 10 minute cool off time. If you put your hand on the cylinder after 10 minutes you will find it cools off quite a bit in 10 minutes.

What we are doing during this heat up and cool off time is getting the piston and cylinder up to temp, which gets them to proper tolerances—cold—a piston is not round—it’s tapered and out of round—at operating temp it is round.


#9- After you get to the second 15 min warm up, go ahead and ride it EASY-1st and 2nd gear only—for the 15 minutes, than the 10 minute cool off.


#10- You can now ride it for the remaining 5 minute increments until you reach the 30 minute ride time still with the 10 minute cool off.


You have now run it for two 5 minute times and added two 5 minute run times to each until you reach 30 minutes of run time with 10 minutes of cool off time each.


I hope this makes sense—you want to heat it up and cool it down-WITH OUT a big load on it until now.


NOW the fun part.


You should now be up to a 30 minute run time.


#11- On the second 30 minute ride, at about the 15 minute mark you want to put a full load on the engine—Here’s what is happening inside, All the new parts inside your engine want a easy break in and get to know each other—except the piston rings—they need to work to break in—So now the parts inside are warmed up and happy—now the rings.


#12- During the second 30 minute ride you should have your riding gear on and at the 15 minute mark from a fairly low RPM hold it wide open in second gear until near the rev limiter—this will only take a few seconds—now stay in second gear and let off completely, after the engine gets to a lower RPM, shift up and ride out the rest of the 30 minutes to get rid of the heat you just generated.


You just seated the rings against the cylinder wall and at full throttle with very little oil, when you backed off at high RPM you created a lot of vacuum to pull oil up past the rings and help rinse away very small particles of metal removed during this process.


#13- Now the 10 minute cool off.


#14- 30 minutes is the maximum amount of run time.


#15- On every other 30 minute run, See #12-  do the wide open portion and don’t forget to cool it off by riding out the rest of the time.


#16- I’ll do this until I use about ½ tank of gas.


I know this is a pain and will take you about 1 day, but your engine will thank you for a LONG time.


Now change the oil and filter, check the coolant and go have fun.






This works great. You do NOT need to remove the engine to change out a bad starter. To begin remove the hood, side covers, belly pan plate, the oil filter and drain the oil from the engine and the tank. (the oil filter must be off to get the starter out) Remove the steering shaft that’s above the air box (I remove the tie rod at the front of the sled) I do this by putting the nut back on about half way and use a 12″ pipe that just fits over the threads but not the nut and hit with a hammer, it’s a tapered fit and pretty tight. now swing the shaft out of the way with all wires and cables from the handle bars attached. Now remove the air box. From here you can remove both front motor mount bolts. You do not need to loosen the long rear motor mount bolt.I than raise the front of the sled enough to to get under it and remove the starter motor bolts (a 12mm ratchet box wrench works great) and the 10 mm nut on the battery cable.Now pull the starter out of the engine and notice how close it is to coming out the bottom, set it in a spot as close to coming out as possible. I now get another person to help me and with two long pry bars going in from the sides prying against the frame and a safe place on the engine, move the engine back about 3/4 of an inch and the starter motor falls in the drain pan under the oil filter. I find that there is enough flex in the exhaust flex pipes to allow the engine to move back the small amount you need. You do not need to drain the coolant or remove any more parts to do this. with two people holding the engine back again you can get the new starter back in. Put all the removed parts back on and enjoy all the time you saved from flat rate. Yamaha now offers a replacement brush kit for this starter, now you don’t have to replace the whole starter   Ray


After 40 years in the motorcycle industry I have THE answer to the question  ” What oil do I put in my motorcycle and should I use an oil additive”

I HIGHLY recommend the SILKOLENE COMP 4 oil in either the 15/40 or the 20/50 grades.

I also HIGHLY recommend the oil additive made by BG called EPC  (engine performance concentrate)

These two products together make the best lubricating package I have ever come up with.

This is what I tell my customers: with this oil and EPC in your engine you will feel a difference at the shift lever with in 3 to 5 miles. It does make that much of a difference-you can feel it.

Now if you can feel a difference at the shift lever, that is less friction in your engine and the rest of the moving parts will be happy and last a lot longer too.   Also it cannot effect your wet clutch.

I have taken apart several engines with over 50,000 miles on them that used Silkolene oil and EPC and and they still had the hone marks in the cylinders, These engines had almost no wear in them.

For your car use BG MOA  (motor oil additive) it has EPC in it and a lot of other additives that your car needs and a motorcycle does not.

I bought a new Toyota 4 runner in 1988 and it got Silkolene and EPC after break in for it’s life. I gave it to my son with 420,000 mile on it and it still uses no oil.

I truly believe in these products and I have many 1000’s of cans of EPC  in many motorcycles and NO ONE has ever asked for there money back because it didn’t work, most times a rider will come back to tell me it REALLY did make a difference that he could feel.

Hey you have to change your oil any way, why not try this and then you can tell me how great it worked for you.

To find a BG dealer near you go to will answer any oil questions you may have and explains all there products.

I hope this information helps you decide what oil to use next.

Ride safe


Say Hello To Ray and His Son Adam

Say hello to Ray and His Son, Ray is the more experienced one on the left.